Had the same problem myself, finally solved by removing a small screw from each side of the radio. The problem is these are located behind the trim but still very close to the front of the radio, I had to lie on my back with my head in each footwell in turn and reaching up the side of the radio into the dash removed them with a crancked screwdriver and lots of swearing!. Remove the starter motor in 9 easy steps. Instructions as follow: n1. Remove right headlight. Remove battery and battery tray.

• Design Engine Daewoo Matiz
• Daewoo Matiz Price

Remove tube between air filter and throttle body. Reach behind the gear linkages and feel the bolts holding the starter motor. There are what seems like 3 bolts on a L shape, the center one holds the plate for the gear linkages, do not undo, it's a pain in the neck to put back. Undo the two bolts holding the starter motor. From under the car undo the one nut holding the power feed from the battery and the nut holding the cable from the key. Lift the back of the starter motor up clearing the oil pressure sender and so the front of the starter motor points down.

Support the front of the starter motor and ease it down and out. Headlamp removal On the 00 Matiz I am working on, you first remove the Phillips headed screw which holds the body coloured panel between the headlamp and the indicator. Then using a 10mm spanner or socket you remove the 3 bolts anchoring the headlamp to the car. Now all you have left is to disconnect any wiring and you have the lamp out. Honestly, this is as basic as it gets and I wish the rest of my head gasket job was this easy. Theres a tradeoff here though.you take all the steel associated with the traditional front grill and surrounds on a car which make headlight removal more cumbersome, and replace it with the nothingness that is the front of a daewoo matiz! Hence there is very little there at the front when you lift the bonnet, only the headlights.

Design Engine Daewoo Matiz

Probably best to get a manual.I didnt have one and spent a long time.(I do most of my own car mechanics and found it a sod.)The problem,as typically on my car is very tight access and corroded fixings. First get a new cable and study it and look under the car to follow the course of the cable as it isn't obvious from the top where it enters the engine compartment.(You will need to jack up the car a little and secure safely with axle stands to get to the clutch end. )The stirrup end attaches to a notch in the clutch pedal arm and this is kept in place by the end of the spring that tensions the clutch pedal. I found it necessary to take the whole clutch lever off its bush(14 mm socket)but note carefully which way the spring goes on the shaft and where the 2 free ends locate.If you don't it might take you along time to work it out.

The outer cable is attached by a bracket with 2x 10 mm headed shouldered nuts and is very difficult to access with spanners as very little room. I used ratchet spanners and it was very awkward;perhaps an1/4th drive socket might have worked better. Dont lose the nuts. Pull the cable off and you will note there are 2 little spacer bushes that go over the studs on the bulkhead.Dont lose these either as the new cable wont come with them and you need them to reattach the nuts properly, which will dig in otherwise. At the other end the cable passes through a holder and rigid bracket to the left front side of engine.You will find a threaded rod that goes through a pivot pin in the clutch actuater arm and is fixed by a special adjuster nut This might be corroded on and if so you will need to saw through the threaded rod.If you are lucky you may be able to get the nut off the remnant with heat and a vice.I couldn't but 2x10 mm bolts will do (one will act as a spacer in the arm) leave the old cable roughly in place for now.

Daewoo Matiz Price

Guide the new cable behind the engine by the old one. Use a piece of bent wire from the cabin side to draw in the stirrup of the cable and make sure the cable is the right way up. Connect the stirrup into the notch and grease and reassemble the clutch pedal pivot and spring the correct way!!Then reattach the outer cable bracket with the 2 stud spacers and shouldered bolts. I found it difficult to get the nuts to the studs due to the space constraints and dropped them several times.Whenyou achieve this go to the other end and insert the cable end though the brackets and into the pivot pin.Then force the rubber cone into its bracket and do up the adjuster nut on the clutch arm until there is only a little free play in the arm. I found that the clutch pedal was high initially then the cable slacked off considerably after a few miles and had to readjust hugely (my daughter was 10 miles away by then )This is easy however Possibly i was having a bad day. Should be 15 mins,took me 2 hours!!